A seemingly simple and practical accessory, the tote bag boasts a rich history intertwined with cultural shifts, fashion trends, and environmental concerns.
While bags for carrying items have likely existed for centuries, the word "tote," meaning "to carry," dates back to the 17th century, with the term "tote bag" itself first appearing in 1900.
The modern tote bag's origins can be traced back to the 1940s when L.L. Bean, the iconic Maine-based outdoor brand, introduced (ironically in terms of current global warming) the "ice bag," a sturdy canvas bag designed for transporting ice from cars to freezers, a necessity in an era when household refrigerators were uncommon. It’s durable and versatile design quickly caught on, with people adapting it for carrying groceries, household items, and other necessities. By the 1950s, the tote bag had become a popular choice for homemakers, its practicality and spaciousness making it ideal for daily tasks.
The 1960s marked a turning point for the tote bag, as it transitioned from a purely utilitarian object to a fashion statement. L.L. Bean reintroduced the "ice bag" as the "Boat and Tote," adding a touch of style with colorful trims. We also began to see the rise of iconic designs, like the "Cashin Carry Tote" by designer Bonnie Cashin. Cashin's later work for Coach further cemented the tote bag's place in the world of high fashion.
The tote bag's popularity continued to grow in the following decades, with the 1980s seeing its adoption as a promotional tool by businesses. The New York bookstore, The Strand, was one of the pioneers of this trend, introducing its own tote bag featuring the store's name and logo. We also witnessed the more iconic fashion with the birth of the Hermès Birkin bag, a luxury tote designed by Jean-Louis Dumas for actress Jane Birkin.
The iconic nature of the tote has played out again and again in recent years. This includes the Yayoi Kusama collaboration with Louis Vuitton, who’s vivid signature polka dots turned the tote bag into wearable art. And even IKEA’s Frakta Bag, which became a cultural icon for its bold blue and yellow colors and practicality, was later copied in a leather version by fashion house Balenciaga as a commentary on the intersection of luxury and utility.
In the past two decades the tote bag has become a symbol of eco-consciousness, hailed as a sustainable alternative to single-use plastic bags, and a wearable signal of planet saving. Designer Anya Hindmarch’s “I’m Not a Plastic Bag” tote was perhaps the pinnacle of this discussion, now sitting in collection at the V&A in London. But with a full accounting, ironically, studies have shown that the production of cotton tote bags requires significant resources, resulting in a higher carbon footprint compared to plastic bags. In fact, a typical tote bag made of cotton or organic cotton may actually need to be reused hundreds to even thousands of times to offset its environmental impact (although they do avoid the plastic waste).
The tote bag's story serves as a reminder of the complex interplay of utility, fashion, design, luxury, sustainability, and unintended consequences. The Climate Studio tote bag's Context (01) and Context (02) by designer J. Paul Neeley are a notable addition to the story of the tote bag, adding a critical discussion of context and power and value to the climate breakdown moment we are all experiencing.
